Tulum ruins, México

Tulum is one of the most visited archaeological sites on the Yucatan Peninsula, due in part to its close proximity to Cancun. It is an impressive site, although, perhaps not quite as impressive as either Chichen Itza or Uxmal. Still, Tulum represents a fine example of the architecture and history of the Mayan people and is worth a visit.

When the Spaniards arrived at the walled fortress of Tulum in 1518,

The Castle on the cliff

they considered it as large and beautiful as their beloved Seville. They may have been struck by its location, or the beautiful painted facades of its buildings. Tulum's name is more recent than its oldest structures, and translates, not surprisingly to "wall" from Mayan. The city's original name is believed to have been Zama or “place of the dawn,” in reference to its position by the sea looking eastward.

The approximate date of the city's construction is unclear. While it is believed to have been built around 300 BC, the majority of the buildings appear to date from between 1200 to 1500 AD, when the city was inhabited by the Mayans and gained its greatest importance.

With its strategic position at the top of a cliff, Tulum made an excellent fortress. The city is surrounded by walls on three sides with the fourth side well protected by the sea. As with El Rey on Cancun Island, and San Gervasio on Cozumel Island, Tulum has the same east coast Mayan style of architecture common to the region. During the 13th century, the residents of Tulum became trading partners with their neighbors in Mayapan, another important city also located on the Yucatan. This relationship appears to have ended when the Spaniards arrived. Within 70 years of the Spanish Conquest, Tulum was completely abandoned, although some Mayan pilgrims continued to visiting the city.

You enter Tulum through a breach in its western wall. During the city's golden age, these walls enclosed all of the city's civic and ceremonial buildings as well as its palaces. The walls also separated the various classes within the society. While the city's rulers lived safely within the fortress, the rest of the population lived outside. There are variety of openings along the walls that are currently closed to visitors. These entrances were probably built so that the Mayans could gain access to the exterior of the fortified site.

El Torreón

On two of the fortress' corners are a pair towers that served as temples, called El Torreón. The left tower, closest to the current entrance is in better condition than the one on the right, which is almost destroyed. Archaeologists do not believe that either tower played a defensive roll in the city. Each has three doors and an altar along the back wall where offerings were probably deposited. There is a panel with geometric designs above the molding of the facade, which is believed to have been painted at one time. Due to their condition, visitors are no longer allowed inside the towers.

Casa del Cenote

As you pass the temples entering further into the site toward the sea, you encounter another relatively small building called “La Casa del Cenote” or “The House of the Well.” As the name implies, the structure was built over a cave containing water (a cenote). The building is rectangular with a room on each side and a tomb in the middle. At the back of the building there is a small area where occupants celebrated religious ceremonies. Due to its close proximity to the sea, the water in the cenote is too salty to drink.

Templos miniatura

Small-scale reproduction temple

Tulum includes a series of small-scale reproductions of temples from the region called Templos Miniatura. The temples are too small to enter and were probably used as shrines with offerings deposited inside them.

Templo del Dios del Viento

Templo del Dios del Viento (Wind's God Temple) was constructed on top of a circular platform, something found infrequently in the area.

Temple of the Wind God

The temple itself is rectangular in shape and has only one door. On the upper part of the temple's facade are two moldings decorated with small stucco statues. Some of the stones along the walkway leading to this ruin are quite slippery, so watch your step.

Templo de la Estela

When first discovered, archaeologists found fragments of the stela (a stone monument now located in the British Museum) inside Templo de la Estela (Temple of the Initial Series) along with representations of people and some hieroglyphs. The stela was inscribed with the Mayan date corresponding to 564 A.D. This confused archaeologists who thought that Tulum had been built hundred of years later than this. It is now believed that the stela was brought to Tulum from Tankah, a settlement about 4 km (3 miles) to the north

The Castle

Among the largest group of buildings in Tulum is El Castillo (The Castle). This is the city's most imposing building and was, without a doubt, its most important. The structure has two small rooms in its upper part where the principal religious ceremonies were held. The facade was decorated with sculptures and its corners still show the remains of masks. The upper temple was built on top of another building, which can still be seen from either side of the stairway. At ground level are two other small temples where offerings were deposited. El Castillo was dedicated to the Mayan god Kukulkan and is located on the site's highest point. In addition to its function as a temple, El Castillo may also have been used as a lighthouse or a kind of beacon.

Templo del Dios Descendente

Templo del Dios Descendente (Temple of the Descending God) is one of the most beautiful temples in Tulum.

Temple of the Descending God

This is not the result of age, but the way these entries were originally designed. As with several other structures on the site, Templo del Dios Descendente was constructed over another temple that was filled in to serve as its base. The temple gets its name from a sculpture located there that represents a god-human wearing a headdress, descending from the heavens, holding an object of some kind. This partly human descending figure is found on several other buildings in the site as well as other buildings in the area, including Coba, another archaeological site located around 50 km (30 miles) to the west. Although the temple was originally decorated with a mural of several gods, this work of art has since been lost to time and the elements. At the bottom of the stairs is a small building that is believed to have been dedicated to the goddess Ixchel. Inside this small structure that archaeologists suspect represent the male sexual organ.

El Palacio

El Palacio (The Palace), as its name implies, served as a residence for Tulum's most important inhabitants. There are benches around the walls that were used as seats and probably as beds. At the back of the building is an area where the family held religious ceremonies. This site is badly deteriorated, but contains a fine stucco carving of a descending god. It is also known as the House of the Halach Uinic (First Lord or kind).

Templo de las Pinturas or Temple of the Frescoes

Temple of the Frescoes

This two level building, called Templo de las Pinturas (Temple of the Frescoes), is the best preserved in Tulum, and takes its name from the colored murals on one of its inner walls. The upper level temple is decorated with red-colored hand prints. The lower level is comprised of two temples, one within the other, and has far more interesting decorations. The inner temple's facade is decorated with murals. The outer temple boasts stucco figures in bas-relief, and carved masks of Chac, who is presumed to be the creator god. The outer temple also features a series of sculptures, including one of the descending god-human figure. The murals here were painted in three levels, representing the dark underworld of the deceased, the middle order of the living, and the home of the creator and rain gods.

La Casa de las Columnas

La Casa de las Columnas (The House of the Columns) faces away from the place across a small plaza to the south. It was used by the Halach Uinic, or king, to do businesses with lords of lower rank.

The Reservoir House or Structure 20.

This is a small residential building that got its name from the small reservoir found there.

Getting to and from the site

The Tulum ruins are located about 130 km (86 miles) south of Cancun, about 60 km (38 miles) south of Playa del Carmen, and about 3 km (2 miles) north of the town of Tulum. The site is open everyday from 8 AM to 5 PM. The entrance fee is about $37 pesos (US$3.70) plus a $30 pesos (US$3.00) fee for video camera used inside the site. No tripods are allowed, however. Until recently, there was no charge for entering the site on Sundays, but that was recently discontinued. Tickets should be paid in pesos. You will find restrooms, a parking lot, and many gift stores there. Right after the ticket counter is a small book store where you can buy postcards and Tulum tour books in several languages.

By Car

The train to the Tulum Ruins

There is both an old and a new entrance from Carretera 307 (Federal Highway 307). Just follow the signs. The distance from the parking lot to the ruins is about 400 meters (400 yards), a five to ten minutes walk. If the distance or the heat is too much for you, there is a shuttle service that charges a $15 peso (US$1.50) round-trip fee.

Bus or Shuttle

If traveling by bus or shuttle, make sure you do not miss the turn off to the ruins. Buses departing from Cancun and Playa del Carmen will take you close to the site, but a short walk is necessary to get there. From Carretera 307 (Federal Highway 307) you'll need to walk around one km (half a mile) to the main entrance. From the Playa del Carmen bus station, you can buy either a first or second class bus ticket to Tulum. Buses from Playa del Carmen to the site run almost continuously.

Van service

From Playa del Carmen, you may also take a van. They are parked on Calle 2 Norte, on the opposite side of the Post Office on Avenida Juarez. The vans charge $20 pesos (US$2) to the ruins, and depart once they are full

Taxi Service

While viable, this is your most expensive option. You can take a taxi from Playa del Carmen, but prices can run anywhere from $300 to $500 pesos (US$30 to US$50). Taxis fares from Tulum Pueblo to the ruins are $20 pesos (US$2) for up to four people. Taxis from Cancun vary as well, running anywhere from $600 to $1000 pesos (US$60 to US$100).