Xel-Ha ruins, México

Xel-Ha translates to “place where the water is born” in Mayan due to its location on one of the largest coves on the East coast of the Yucatan Peninsula. The city of Xel-Ha, which is not to be confused with the ecopark that shares its name, was founded around 100 B.C. Between 400 and 700 A.D., it became a well-organized village. The oldest masonry buildings on the site date from this time and are formed into closed plazas. Several residential structures also appear to have been built around that time. From 700 to 1200 A.D., the residents made contact with other central Yucatan cities. The influence of those cities is seen in the pottery of this period found at Xel-Ha.

The Spanish wrote of the small village where they disembarked during the conquest, referring to it as Xala.

The Lolthrop group at Xel-Ha

Between the 7th and 12th centuries, Xel-Ha was an important seaport. Its large bay could receive numerous boats simultaneously, and its close proximity to the city of Coba also afforded it enormous economic stability. Coba, at that time, was the most important and stable city in the region, both politically and economically. Trade between various cities included obsidian, jade, coconuts, feathers, cotton, textiles and other merchandise.

Buildings

The Xel-Ha ruins are comprised of three groups of buildings, the Lothrop group, the Pajaros (birds) group, and the Jaguar group.

Lolthrop group

The Lothrop group is said to have been constructed around 1200 to 1500 A.D. and is made up of a group of stone bases with stairs. The buildings are said to have been used as homes and shrines. One of the structures, as noted at the site, is the base of a round stone structure. There are no other buildings of this type in Xel-Ha and its use is rather mysterious.

The Pajaros group

The Pajaros group includes the highest building in the site, and is visible from the federal highway.

The checkerboard at the Pajaros group

It is divided into four sections. In one, there is a colored checkerboard painted on the wall with red, gray and yellow squares. There is also the painting of a figure that is said to date from between 300 and 600 A.D. The style is said to show influences from Teotihuacan (an ancient city located near Mexico City).

The Jaguar group

The Jaguar group is made up of five structures. The architectural style is said to reflect the East Coast style, common to the area, and familiar to those who have visited places like Tulum. This main building is called, unsurprisingly, Casa del Jaguar (the Jaguar House). It is appears to have been built in two phases. The original building was comprised only of a small room with thick walls rising from a low base. There are images on the walls that appear to be of a person in colorful dress. Later, the base was enlarged, and a small stairway was added. Additional walls and a doorway were added at this time as well. Archaeologists suspect the building was used as a temple or shrine.

Near the Jaguar group is an unexplored cenote (water-filled cave or well). It is believed to have been used by Xel-Ha's residents for human sacrifices. The cenote includes a beautiful underground sinkhole full of clear water. To get to the water, you must climb 3 or 4 meters (3 or 4 yards) below the surface.

The cenote at Xel-Ha

Entering a cave like this is very dangers, and not recommended. As is common everywhere in the Yucatan Peninsula, the terrain is rocky and can be difficult to walk over, so proceed at your own risk. Along the way, it is common to see lizards and iguanas sunning themselves.

Getting to and from the site

There is a parking lot on site if you decide to drive. You can also take a second class bus from any of the bus stations in either Cancun, Playa del Carmen or Tulum. You can also catch second class buses at almost any point along Carretera 307 (Federal Highway 307). If you prefer, there are vans running between Playa del Carmen and Tulum that you can take instead. Make sure to ask the driver to drop you at the entrance of the Xel-Ha ruins, not the ecopark that shares its name. If you miss your stop, the ruins and the ecopark are within walking distance of each other, so getting between them is easy.

Information

The Xel-Ha archaeological site is open everyday from 8:00 to 17:00 hrs (8 AM to 5 PM). There is an entrance fee of $28 pesos (US$3). No drinks or snacks are sold at the site, so bring your own. Water is especially important, since walking in the hot Mexican sun can dehydrate you very quickly.