Where to go in Valladolid

Templo de San Bernardino de Siena, and Ex-convent of Sisal

These two are the most valuable architectonic jewels found in the Colonial Yucatan.

San Bernardino Churh, Valladolid

By the time it was build and for many years after that, it was named Temple and Convent San Francisco, due to the fact that were the Franciscans order that built it. The name Sisal comes from the Mayan Ziil-Hail or Ziil-Ha that means “of cold waters” or “cold water” since it was built on top of the roof of a cold water cenote. In 1552 the Franciscans started to build in this area a very modest building but it was set on fire twice due to the Mayans revolts. In that year the actual church and convent started to be built by Juan de Merida, a former soldier. The construction ended in 1560, however the construction of the convent took longer. On both sides of the church’s altar there were two chapels, one for Saint Diego de Alcala and the second one for the Virgin of Guadalupe. The sculpture of the virgin was brought from Guatemala. It happens that from Guatemala were brought two images of the same Virgin. One would be for a Convent in the city of Merida, and the second one for another one in Izamal in order to redeem the Indians. The second image was claimed as theirs by the people of Valladolid; and the people from Izamal also wanted it. In its way to Izamal from Guatemala it was necessary to pass through Valladolid. Once the image reached Valladolid, according to the images carriers, the image got heavier so they had to leave it on the ground and requested from some help. The more people they brought, the heavier the image got. Finally the virgin never got to Izamal, instead, it stayed at Valladolid.

The Temple and Convent face the Sisal Plaza. Going around the corner, facing the building at your right hand it can still be seeing a roofless part of the building. It was build this way so the Mayans could attend the masses without getting into contact with the whites. In the back of the building there is a huge garden, where the Franciscans used to grow their own vegetables and fruits. Just behind the Convent it was built a water-wheel to get water from the cenote. To get to this place, from the main plaza walk to the west on 41 Street until the street splits into 41 and 41A streets. Take 41 A and walk until the end. It is located just 10 minutes walking from the main plaza.

Museo de Arte Popular or Convento de San Roque

It is located on Calle 41, 100 meters (100 yards) from the main plaza. The museum was set in the place where it was the convent San Roque. Before it was a convent, it was a hospital named Hospital del Santo Nombre de Jesus (Hospital of the Holly Jesus Name) founded on 1577 by the Valladolid highest authority. Many years later the San Roque Church was built. In 1644 the hospital served both Indians and Spaniards. This hospital was considered as one of the best in the Yucatan Peninsula. There are no remains of the hospital, but the San Roque Church. The yard was used as a burial ground for some historic personages, and the place where some rebels were executed in 1910. It was also the place where the first and second electric power plants were installed. Since June 1985 it houses the Museo de Arte Regional (Regional Art Museum). The museum houses some artifacts and clay objects found in Ek-Balam, an archaeological site close to Valladolid, some pieces of the records carried out by the Spaniards, some other objects of art.

San Servasio Church

The church of Saint Servasio is located on one side of the main plaza.

San Servacio Church, Valladolid

The church was built originally for Our Lady on March 25, 1545 by the priest Francisco Hernandez. The first church that was built was very simple and had a temporary roof, later it got a stone wall. In 1705 the church was demolished by the order of the bishop Reyes de los Rios and in 1706 was rebuild. The first church faced west, and the actual church faces north due to a singular story known as “The crime of the majors of Valladolid”. At the end of the 17th century, the governor of the province of Yucatan Martin de Urzua sent to Valladolid to Fernando Hipolito de Osorno as Capitan General by recommendations of the bishop Pedro de los Reyes Rios. When Osorno arrived got involved in an affair with the girlfriend of the second lieutenant Miguel Ruiz de Ayuso, who didn’t do anything to save his honor. Osorno’s attitude caused inquietude in Valladolid. The governor remained silent. The captain later became the major of the city but not for long. The governor and the bishop broke relationship. The major was deposed by the governor due to many faults in the administration. Osorno was not a popular man, nobody liked him. For recommendations of one of his friends he looked for asylum in the church to avoid going to jail or being hurt. In January 1703 Ayuso became the major of Valladolid. In July 15 of the same year he got inside the church and took Osorno prisoner as well as to one of Osorno’s friends, the one who asked him to look for asylum. Both men were murdered. The authorities remained silent to this case but the governor Urzua requested the arrest of the major and the people who helped him. However, the viceroy of Spain dismissed the governor when he knew about the scandal, considering that the governor was an accomplice. Later Ayuso was found guilty and was hung on May 28, 1705. This chapter in the history of Valladolid took too much importance that the bishop Reyes de los Rios requested the demolition of the church, which was profaned by the local authorities to take prisoner some people without permission. The church then was built facing other direction. The church is open dailyto the public from 6 AM to 9 PM everyday.

Iglesia de la Candelaria

It was built during the 17th century for the virgin of Candelaria, the holly patron of Valladolid. The story of this church goes as follows. A Mayan slave in his way to Valladolid from the forest, carrying palms with the beasts, saw a white lady finely dressed and carrying a baby and a candle. She looked at him and asked the Mayan to build a roof for her and her baby. The slave and another man he asked for help built a house for the so-called “Queen”. Once they finished building the house, they went back to work and were asked for the steward what had happened with them during that time. They told him about the lady but he did not believe it, so they took him to the place. When the steward arrived to the place was amazed with the beauty of the image of the virgin. He then gave notice to his landowner. The landowner then asked to the slaves to build a new room for the virgin. This room is located in the back of the altar. This virgin was named la Virgen de las Candelas (Virgin of the Candles) due to the fact that she had a candle in one of her hands. The church is located at calles 44 y 35. The church was build with stones, floor made of bricks, and a vaulted roof. Not very clear when it is opened.

Church of Santa Ana

This church is on calle 34, in front the plaza Santa Ana, three blocks from the main Plaza. It was built probably on the 17th century and was exclusively a church for the Mayans since all the talks, except the masses were carried out in Mayan. It is dedicated to Santa Ana, the mother of the Virgin Mary. The church is composed of an atrium, a temple, and a sacristy; it also has three entrances. The main entrance is composed of three arches with a cross in each one.

The interior of the church is very simple, and is composed of flat walls with no ornaments. The wall at the back has an altarpiece that holds a niche for the holly patron of the church. In main altar there are two images that belong to the saints Dimas and Judas Tadeo.

Church of San Juan de Dios

It is located south of the main plaza in the neighborhood named San Juan. Its construction dates back from 1780 and the church is named Fishermen Refuge. The holly patron of the neighborhood is the Virgin of Refuge, and the patron of the church is San Juan Bautista, the poor’s patron. This church seems to be abandoned, but for sure looks in not a very good condition.

Church of Santa Lucia

It is located in the neighborhood that got its name on Calle 42. The only information about this church is that it was build around the year 1600. The holly patron is Santa Lucia. The story about this holly personage says that she was a tortured woman by a Roman emperor who ordered to his people to remove her eyes. Her executioner carried out the order, but once he removed her eyes, new ones emerged. Since then she is considered the patron of the eye’s sick. The temple is very simple composed of a single vaulted roof. The exterior is flat.

The City Hall building

It is located on calle 40 in front of the main plaza. It was a one story building built in lime and stone.

City Hall and Plaza, Valladolid

In this place took place the audiences and justice meetings. In 1864 the city hall was rebuilt. Nowadays, in the upper floor is the major of the city’s office, and all meeting are carried out there. In the main hall there are four paintings of the Yucatecan painter Manuel Lizama which represent different eras on the Valladolid’s history from the Conquest period to the 1910 Mexican Revolution period.

Cenote Zaci

This cenote, as well as the others in Valladolid were, and still are for some of the inhabitants, the source of water for the Mayans, and later for the Spaniards. The cenote is located on calle 36 between calles 37 and 39, located very close to the main plaza. The cenote is covered with algaes, but in general it is kept very clean. The water is very fresh and it is allowed to swim, however no lifeguards are found here; you must be extra careful if you want to swim. There is an entrance fee of $10 pesos (US$1.00). There is a passageway all around the cenote where you can have different views at different angles. The cenote has a roof and there is vegetation in the sunny side. The cenote is opened from 8 to 6 PM. There is a restaurant in the place, a very small zoo with very few animals: a big snake sharing the crate with a chicken, some spider monkeys and a some other very few local animals.

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